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DESCRIPTION: This small group contains a few species of ornamental and edible plants, which may form clumps or runners. F. chiloensis and F. indica are two decorative, low-growing plants, which produce white flowers during the summer. F. ananassa is the species that produces the delicious, edible fruits we commonly know as the garden Strawberry. They are herbaceous perennials, although they tend to decline a bit faster in the Deep South, where they are usually treated as annuals. Strawberry crop can grow well for three to four years, after which the quality and yield decline. Many improvements have been made with the Strawberry. Some of the wild berries are so delicate, that they should be eaten as soon as they are picked. It is important to choose a variety that is suited to your climate and resistant to the diseases common in your area. Cultivars are classified in one of three categories based on their response to daylength. June-bearers: The typical Strawberry is a spring- or June-bearer because it produces its fruit in June, although in warmer climates, harvest may begin earlier. Because of the short days of fall, June-bearers form buds that blossom and fruit in the spring and produce one large crop over a period of about six weeks. If you want to have a large quantity of berries for jam-making, freezing, etc. at one time, June-bearers are for you. Don't plant early-season June-bearers if your region is subject to late frosts, which will injure the flowers. Day-neutrals: Day-neutrals don't respond to daylength, rather they flower and fruit for about five months as long as the temperatures stay above 35º F and below 85º F and they receive proper care. Day-neutrals do best in the northern half of the US., from the mid-Atlantic to central California and in the higher, cooler elevations of the South. Day-neutrals tend to produce more berries in the spring and fall. Ever-bearers: This type produces a crop in June and one in the fall. They form most of their flower buds during the long, summer days. Although Day-neutrals produce better quality fruit and higher yields, Ever-bearers are better for climates that have high temperatures.

POTTING: Soil: Strawberries need full sun and well drained, sandy loam with a ph from 5.8 to 6.2. In heavy soil with poor drainage, Strawberries should be planted on raised beds. The beds should be built up 8 to 10 inches; this can be accomplished by taking soil from the aisles between the rows and adding organic material or buying good topsoil. Since Strawberries are shallow rooted, a site with access to water is important, Strawberries do not like sitting in water, they like consistent moisture but will rot with poor drainage. To reduce the risk of verticillium wilt, do not plant in soil where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplant, blackberries, or raspberries have grown in the past three years.

PLANTING: In cold winter climates, Strawberries should be planted as early in the spring as possible (March or April in most of the US.). In warm-winter climates, plant from August through November. The plants will fruit in the winter months. In warm-winter climates, Day-neutrals can be planted in the fall or early spring. When you purchase your plants, soak the roots in water for an hour or two (no more) and plant immediately. If the roots are very long, trim them back about 4 inches. Remove and moldy or black roots before planting. Set plants 12 to 15 inches apart in rows that are 48 inches apart. Mulch the rows with straw shredded leaves or compost, Mulching increases productivity, decreases water use and helps to keep the fruit clean. Dig a hole deep enough for the roots to extend straight down. The soil should be level with the midpoint of the crown. Firm the soil and water thoroughly. Let the runners spread and root to form a solid matted row 15 to 18 inches wide, then clip off those growing longer. It is better for June-bearers if their flowers are removed during the first year. Your efforts will produce a second year with a large crop of berries. The flowers of Day-neutrals and Ever-bearers should be removed for six weeks after planting; then let flowers form. Larger plants with higher yields will be obtained. Watering: Make sure the plants are well watered for the first two weeks after planting. June- and Ever-bearers need 1 to 1½ inches of water a week. When June-bearers are fruiting, they need 1½ to 2 inches per week. On sandy soil or hot weather, they may need more. Soaker hoses or trickle irrigation is best for Strawberries because they keep water off the foliage, which helps prevent problems such as gray mold.

FERTILIZING: Strawberries need nutrion to produce a nice yield. Give plants blood meal and bone meal once a month from June to September. Do not over fertilize or you will get more leaf growth and poor flowering.

PESTS: Birds love your fresh berries, simply cover your strawberry patch with netting. Slugs and snails enjoy strawberry foliage, copper edging around the strawberry patch will stop this problem, slugs and snails won't cross the copper.

DISEASES: The most common disease is verticillium wilt, this will not prevent fruit production but will kill plants. There is no way to stop this when your plants are infected, try to choose varieties that are certified as being verticillium resistant.

VARIETIES: Local, state and regional Strawberry trials are conducted by various governmental agencies and lists are published of the best modern varieties for home or commercial use. Make sure you choose a variety that is adapted to your climate. Consult your County Cooperative Extension or a strawberry nursery. June-Bearers: Early Season - Chandler; Earliglow; Sequoia; Veestar. Early Midseason - Honeoye; Hood; Kent; Red Chief; Surecrop. Midseason - Allstar; Benton; Cardinal; Shuksan. Late Midseason - Glooscap; Jewel; Lateglow; Rainier; Sparkle; Tioga. Day-Neutrals: Fern; Hecker; Selva; Tillikum; Tribute; Tristar. Ever-Bearers: Fort Laramie; Ogallala; Ozark Beauty; Quinault.